Due to the success of my previous Oscars dresses review I decided to make another one just for you!
Here we go: OSCARS 2021 - Red carpet gowns sewing technique review. PART 2.
Maria Bakalova in Louis Vuitton
Amanda Seyfried in Armani Privé
Margot Robbie in Chanel
Paulina Porizkova (unknown designer)
I'm going to begin with Maria Bakalova in Louis Vuitton and Amanda Seyfried in Armani Privé
By creating these dresses, the designers probably wanted to tell us that there is never enough tulle!
In one of the reviews, I read that it took about 100 meters of tulle on Maria's dress.
And it looks reasonable if you don’t use a crinoline petticoat.
You can see for yourself if you set the parameters for such a skirt (Full Gathered Skirt/Princess Skirt) in the Software table. To achieve the desired volume, you will have to connect up to 10 upper layers of the skirt and, to create a flared shape, you need to wear a petticoat with ruffles sewn onto it under the skirt.
I will not go into details, because if you are not familiar with the Software, it would be hard to understand.
For our members who finished the Skirts and Petticoats class, everything should be clear:
I set the sector angle = 183, because on the first tab of the same table, I chose the length of the bottom of the hem of the skirt 450 cm. From this, the table indicated to me the value of the angle of the sector.
This, perhaps, was only one subtle point. Everything else is simple and straightforward:
Waist circumference = 66 cm
I choose the standard length of the skirt = 120 cm
I took the gathering coefficients on the petticoat from 8 to 10
Fabric width 150 cm
I use such large coefficients because the skirt does not have a crinoline with rings. And, consequently, a thin and delicate tulle must be assembled on ruffles for the skirt to receive the required volume.
And here you are, we get a fabric consumption of 94, 5, almost 100 meters!
Everyone who is just going to join the VIP membership, there is detailed explanations for each line in the Software in the course "Wedding Skirts and Petticoats".
The Software will give all the necessary dimensions for cutting any wedding skirt. Save hours of complicated calculations and get accurate results in seconds. Moreover, looking at the fabric consumption, you can easily predict the budget for the order.
The bodice of this dress can be cut out according to the pattern from the course "Wedding Dress with sleeves."
Your only task is to change the width of the strap and the shape of the neckline.
Amanda Seyfried's Armani Privé dress has the same bodice pattern as the previous gown. As well as for Marina Bakalova's dress, we choose a pattern from the course " Wedding Dress with sleeves."
The only difference is that the top of the strap should be cut off, leaving the cup line high.
The shape of the skirt is achieved by a special crinoline petticoat.
How to calculate all the parameters and how to sew it, you will find this the course “Umbrella cut ball gown skirt”.
The following dresses are similar in sewing method as well.
Margot Robbie at Chanel
Paulina Porizkova (designer unknown)
I am fascinated by the look of Margot Robbie in this chic dress. It makes her silver-blue eyes shine.
Dress with an extremely simple silhouette. As they say, take the pattern and sew!
How to get this fit without darts? Try my side seam formula: Kozorovitsky's formula.
Of course, the dress has a secret! Let's take a closer look at its fabric texture on a high resolution photo.
Between the flowers, we clearly see a fine mesh. Separate mirrored flowers are skillfully applied to the elastic lace fabric of the ready-made dress, covering the seams of the reliefs. Exclusive delicate handwork!
There is a slight flare in the center back seam.
Less is more! No decorative elements! Only a delicate edging of scallops along the top of the dress and three modest buttons in the center of the bodice.
This simplicity is the real art. Try to find the side seams on the skirt! Write in the comments if you guessed where they are!
This dress is grace itself, doesn’t it?
And Paulina Porizkova’s dress.
Why did I decide to review it? Because several years ago in my wedding salon I accepted at least 3-4 orders per month for this particular style.
Ask me how to sew such a dress and I will answer with my eyes closed.
I’ve done any necklines: a straight line, with a V neckline, a heart, with straps on the shoulder and behind the neck! The general silhouette and assembly principle remained the same.
I always used a straight silhouette dress pattern with two vertical reliefs. Knee-length skirt.
The fabric was chosen stretching in one direction, for example, thin stretch satin.
Specifically for this dress, you can use this pattern:
The order of assembling the dress:
We sew a complete corset lining and a smooth front layer. Leave the side seams on the front layer open. Side seam allowances of 2-2.5 cm are important!
Then, measure the front and back of the dress along the lines under the bust, waist, stomach and hips.
We measure the distance between these lines. We multiply each of these distances by 3 (assembly factor).
Now on a sheet of paper or, you can directly on the fabric, draw a drawing of the shelf and back for the drapery parts. You will get two details (the arrow shows the direction of stretching the fabric):
At a distance of 1 cm (!) From the edge on the sides, we lay 2 machine lines with the maximum stitch length, for assembly.
Lay out the shelf and back on an ironing board or on a table with a soft backing.
Having made an assembly on the sides of the drapery parts (assembly factor = 3), we put them on the front and back. We pin it with pins, slightly stretching the drapery detail to the right and left, so that the drapery stretches and folds form.
We lay the machine stitch on the sides, connecting the drapery piece with the front / back piece.
We finish assembling the dress according to the usual plan.
Due to the fact that the gathering stitch is laid far from the side seam line, the folds are laid randomly and neatly.
Paulina Porizkova and Aaron Sorkin
The skirt from the knee is cut out in the form of two circles (suns). In order for the side seams to be even and beautiful, the cut in the sun was made at an angle of 45 degrees to the lobar thread.
On top of the dress, depending on the shape of the neckline, drapery or lace trim is made.
The dress is charming, loved by women of all ages and easy to make.
This concludes my series of reviews from the 93rd Academy Awards - 2021.
And if you want to make these dresses by yourself - join the Corset Academy classes NOW.