Processing the Lower Cut of the Bustier Corset #10


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So, the cups are attached. It is time to insert the plastic and metal bones.

Let’s start with the metal bones. The metal bone has a side and a front (central) part, which are marked with a certain color by a producer. I arrange the bones correctly and insert them.



The metal bones are inserted into the bone casing, but not under it! I pre-folded and sew the end of the bone casing with hand stitches from the center. That’s why we will insert through the side hole. If you calculate everything correctly, the bone will be inserted easily and there will be 0.5 cm of free space on each side.





When the bone is inserted, it is possible to fold the bone casing on the wrong side and hem with hand stitches.



I do the same with the second cup.



The cups become evener and voluminous when we insert the metal bones.



Now it is the turn of the plastic bones.

I measure the plastic bone according to the central tunnel of the corset. The bone should be shorter than its tunnel by the width of seam allowance of 1.2 cm plus additional 1 cm. It is necessary that the bone will not interfere with the presser foot when making an additional stitching line in the bottom.

I attach the bone to its tunnel and mark the length. I cut the bone with secateurs, however you can use scissors. It doesn’t really matter if the bone is curved. The good news is that it is easy to flatten it with the iron. The bad news is that it also changes its shape under the heat of a human body. Anyway, if the bone is curved, it is more logical to place it with the curve toward the body.



Just as we inserted the metal bone, the plastic bone is inserted into the bone casing, but not under it. Push the bone all the way to the top.



Paired curves. I also measure the bone according to the tunnel length and cut the paired bone. It is much accurate this way. You can align the paired curves with the similar bones if your paired curves are slightly different in length. I round the upper end of the bone with scissors by cutting the sharp corners.






I cut the bones one by one, i.e. I don’t prepare all the bones in advance, but go step by step. I repeatto the last curve.




You will notice the change in the garment when you insert all the bones. The curves are straightened and the corset has a finished look. Also, I hemmed the ends of the bone casing at the cup sides.





Now it is the time to finish the bottom.

I will finish the bottom with the thick, wide elastic tape. Let’s define the right and the wrong sides of this tape.



Certainly there are numerous options how to finish the bottom of the corset. There are also many ways to sew the tape on. I will use one of the simplest ways.

I place the tape and the corset face together and at the distance of seam allowance I make machine stitching and then I fold the tape. This is how neat the bottom finish will be.





I place the corset over the tape and stitch without pulling the tape and stretching the corset. Bar tacks on both sides are made in 2 cm from the edge, taking into the account the fastening area. It is compulsory to level the lower cut before stitching the tape.




I remove all unnecessary threads, mesh and lace basting and cut the seam allowance by 0.5 cm.

I fold the tape on the right side and make a strengthening line. You can make an underwear zigzag on a household machine.




We got the elastic belt in the bottom of our bustier.





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