Processing of the Upper Cut of the Bustier Corset #6





Now when our corset body is ready we should compare it with the pattern. Do it constantly, check and control yourself. You work with very thin fabrics and they can be pulled and deformed. You can make a rookie mistake or by accident. So, compare with the patterns and ensure that the garment corresponds to the size you are making.

Besides, now I recommend marking the upper line according to the pattern. It’s much convenient to make the symmetric marking according to the initial pattern. You can certainly measure 1.2 cm from the upper edge, however, it is more precise if you use the pattern.

You can think about how to finish this edge when you draw the upper line. I will finish it with the tape with fine scallops. The tape is 1.1 cm wide. The scallops go over the edge and the sewing line is the thick tape with a width of 0.6 cm.

Why do I draw your attention to this? The thing is when we start attaching the cup the scallops should be leveled with the upper edge of the cup. The cup pattern is made so that its edge goes to the point A. It means that the upper edge of the scallops should be in this point. You should stitch the tape with the scallops going over the edge. It means we need to count correctly the hemming with the account for the tape width and scallops. So, we need to move the sewing line down by the width of scallops. I explain in such detail, because you will most likely use the different tape and this point is very important as it affects the finishing quality of the upper corset and so its appearance.

To be completely sure of the back height, based on the distances between hooks and eyes on the tape, I apply the tape on and see that the first and last hooks are on the marking line. However, I will raise the upper line by about 0.6 cm, thereby elongating the back height. This way it will be easier for me to insert the fastening.

Taking into account all above-mentioned, I will decrease seam allowance in the upper back center and make it as the width of the thick part of the tape (0.6 cm). On the other end of the upper cut I will increase seam allowance for the height of scallops in the upper corner of the cup attachment. I correct the upper corset line with the account for these peculiarities and draw a new upper cut with a disappearing ink pen, including seam allowance of 0.6 cm.

Therefore, I account for the back height and cup height. Then I fold the corset precisely in half, pin and cut the upper cut along the new line. I leave about 0.6 cm of seam allowance in the cup area equal to the width of the thick part of the tape. So, I achieve the absolutely even and equal upper cut of the corset on both sides.

When I prepare the upper cut of the corset, I place the tape and the corset right sides together and level the cuts. Now seam allowance corresponds to the part of the tape, which we will sew on.

I attach the tape with a regular machine stitching line with seam allowance of 0.6 cm. The length of a stitch is 3.5 mm. It is possible to pull the tape slightly on the back side to ensure the tight fit of the upper cut. However, the corset is so soft and elastic and it will fit perfectly without gathering. There is no need to pull the tape on the back center. We will attach a hook and eye tape in this area, so we don’t want to have any deformation there. I cut the ends of the tape. I will repeat on the second side of the corset.

I level seam allowance, cut the excess fabric and thread to have the neat wrong side.

I fold the tape inward to open the scallops on the upper edge.

I set the maximal stitch length (4 mm) and make regular running machine stitches. I make bar tacks at the start and the end. You should pull the fabric slightly to make the seam elastic. Make an underwear zigzag if you use a household machine. I cut thread at the level of the garment back and the cradle, and remove the basting, which joined mesh and lace.

The upper cut is finished. It is quite elastic. All marked lines will disappear when pressed.

The last control check. I need to be sure that the scalloped edge runs along the upper corset line and the pieces correspond to the patterns.

I am convinced after the check that there is no need for corrections in the cup pattern. The end of the cup will reach the scalloped edge.