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Our work is about to finish. The last thing we should do is to attach the hook and eye tape.
We need to make a minor adjustment in the back center before that. This adjustment is similar to the adjustment we made before attaching the upper tape. In the top we adjust the upper cut to the tape width and in the bottom we need to adjust the back center width to the width of the hook and eye tape.
The seam allowance on the vertical back cut is 1.2 cm according to the pattern. As I have selected the tape, which entirely covers the cut, the back will be sewn between the layers of this tape, so I need to cut seam allowance off.
Further, the hooks and eyes are stitched to the tape in 0.5 cm inward, so these 0.5 cm are added to the tape width. The protruding metal parts in a fastened state add 2-3 mm to each side. So, we need to consider 0.8 cm for the width of these metal parts. Therefore, we will assume that the distance from where we can insert the back edge to the edge of an eye or a hook is 0.8 cm.
It means we need to cut not only 1.2 cm of seam allowance, but additional 0.8 cm that makes 2 cm in total.
So, I cut 2 cm on either side from the back center.
Now we need to determine the length of the hook and eye tape. The upper hook and eye are auxiliary and we need to remove them from the tape, which elongates the auxiliary tips for sewing. I do the same in the bottom and mark the cutting point.
I cut the necessary length of the fastener tape.
I unfasten the tape and get the side with the eyes first. I fold the edge, position the first top eye, bring the back cut under the fold and secure it with a pin. I do the same with the bottom eye: I place it and move the back cut under the fold.
Now we need to distribute evenly the back cut along the tape fold. If you find it difficult to work with pins, use basting. Gradually, when you gain experience, you will give up hand basting and completely switch to working with pins. In the meantime it is ok to use hand basting at the beginning.
I make stitching in 1mm from the lower edge of the tape. You can do it also on the wrong side and against the light. The main problem with such fasteners is that the regular presser foot starts to bump when it runs along the metal parts. Therefore, it is often necessary to change the presser foot to a single-sided foot with a left toe.
I fold the second side of the tape to the initial position and make the second stitching line. The lace is folded back for now.
The lower and upper tape tips with the lace are folded inward and stitched with fine machines stitches (length of stitch is 2mm). I cut the tape as much as possible under the seam. Now it is secured well.
So, the side with the eyes is attached.
To sew the tape symmetrically on the second side you should fasten all hooks and repeat all steps I made on the side with the eyes. I unfold one side of the tape, get the back cut under the tape fold and position the top and the bottom of the corset. I do these operations with the corset fastened. I unfold the tape, fold the lace outward and bring the elastic tape in its place to get an even bottom edge. I pin with two pins to fix the elastic band firmly in its place.
Now I do the same on the back top. I insert the edge with the tape and compare the position of the top. The elastic tape on the eye side should be exactly opposite the elastic tape on the hook side. Now we can unfasten the tape.
My task now is to stitch in 1 mm from the lower edge of the tape. In my case, the hooks are spaced far on the tape that it would be difficult to sew with even a one-sided foot. To avoid spoiling the markings, I will not sew from the left side, but from the right side against the light. The tape is wider on the right side and I can make stitching. I fold the lace back so it doesn't get in the sewing machine. I insert a double narrow presser foot, go carefully over the elastic tape, unfold the tape, bring the back cut to the fold and continue stitching. The machine went through all narrow areas opposite the hooks.
I fold the tape and make stitching on the second side of the tape.
I evaluate my work and check the quality of stitching. Everything is perfect!
This is the hook and eye fastening we get.
So, we made the corset-bustier. I hope it was not difficult.
The technique I showed is not the only one, but one of many. However, the corset we got can become the base for a modern wedding or evening gown. Be creative, decorate as you wish, select any lace or embroidery patterns.
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